The Essential Guide to Nail File Grits | Franklins (2024)

Nail files are the unsung heroes of any nail technician's kit. Whether you're sculpting the perfect stiletto or just smoothing out natural nails, understanding the different grit levels or grades can make a world of difference.

So, let's chat about how you can get the best results for your clients – because knowing your nail file grits inside out is the secret to nailing it every time!

Nail File Grit Meaning

If you're familiar with a nail file, then you've likely seen numbers printed on one side of the file. These are known as the nail file grit or grade numbers.

Nail file grit refers to the size of the abrasive grains on the file, similar to sandpaper. The higher the nail file grit number, the smoother the file; the lower the nail file grit number, the coarser the file. Lower grits are perfect for tough jobs like removing hard acrylic nails, while higher grits are ideal for refining and smoothing natural nails or finishing touches.

If both numbers on the nail file are the same (for example 80/80), it means both sides of the nail file have the same level of coarseness. Whereas if the numbers are different (for example 180/240), each side of the nail file has a different grit level.

Nail files with different grit levels are quite popular, as they offer versatility in one tool!

Nail File Grit Levels Explained

Now we know what a nail file grit is, let's get into all the different nail file grit numbers - so you know exactly when to use each one for the best results.

80/80 (Coarse Grit)

The 80/80 grit nail file is one of the coarsest options available, making it extremely sharp and abrasive. This grit level is commonly used for heavy-duty tasks like shaping and reducing the length of thick acrylic or gel extensions. However, it's essential to be cautious when using this on natural nails, as it can be too harsh and cause damage.

💚 Best For:Removing bulk from hard acrylic nails and heavy gel overlays.
🚩 Not Recommended For:Natural nails or soft, delicate enhancements.

Shop Halo Elite Black Moon Foam Files - 80/80 Grit

100 (Coarse Grit)

The 100 grit nail file is still quite coarse, though slightly less abrasive than the 80 grit. Reach for a 100 grit nail file if you’re wanting to shape and shorten hard gel or acrylic nails. This grit level can effectively remove product bulk but should be used with care to avoid over-filing.

💚 Best For: Shaping and shortening hard gel or acrylic nails.
🚩 Not Recommended For: Natural nails. Use with caution on softer nail enhancements.

ShopEdge Nails White Streek Emery Boards - 100/100 Grit

150 (Medium Grit)

The 150 grit nail file provides a medium level of sharpness, making it suitable for a variety of tasks. It's typically used for refining and shaping hard gel or acrylic nails and starting the smoothing process. While less abrasive than lower grits, it still requires careful use on delicate nails.

💚 Best For: Refining the shape and smoothing hard gel or acrylic nails.
🚩 Not Recommended For: Natural nails, as it can still be too abrasive and may cause damage.

Shop Halo Elite Zebra Moon Foam Files - 150/150 Grit

180 (Medium Grit)

The 180 grit nail file strikes a balance between being gentle yet effective. It's great for refining and shaping gel or acrylic nails, and it's also suitable for prepping natural nails without causing damage. This grit is versatile, making it a staple in any nail tech's kit.

💚 Best For: Refining gel/acrylic nails and prepping the natural nail surface for polish or enhancements.
🚩 Not Recommended For: Heavy-duty tasks like removing thick acrylic or gel layers, as it's not coarse enough to handle those jobs.

Shop Halo Elite Zebra Moon Foam Files - 180/180 Grit

240 (Fine Grit)

The 240 grit nail file is much finer and gentler, making it perfect for delicate tasks. It's commonly used for smoothing and finishing natural nails and lightly buffing the surface of gel or acrylic nails. This grit level is ideal for prepping nails for polish and creating a smooth, even finish.

💚 Best For: Smoothing/finishing natural nails, lightly buffing gel/acrylic nails or prepping nails for polish.
🚩 Not Recommended For: Shaping or removing bulk from acrylic or gel nails.

Shop Halo Elite Zebra Moon Foam Files - 240/240 Grit

Nail Buffer Grits Explained

Nail buffers are essential tools for creating a smooth, polished finish on nails. Unlike nail files, which are primarily used for shaping and reducing length, buffers are designed to refine and shine the nail surface. Buffers also come with grit numbers, indicating their level of abrasiveness.

100/180 Grit Buffer

The 100/180 grit buffer is the first stage in achieving a smooth nail surface. Use the 100 grit side to even out any ridges and smooth rough patches on acrylic or gel nails. Then switch to the 180 grit side to refine the surface further, creating a smoother base for the next buffing stages.

220/280 Grit Buffer

The 220/280 grit buffer is perfect for the next step in the buffing process. The 220 grit side gently smooths out the nail surface even more, preparing it for a finer polish. The 280 grit side begins to bring out a natural shine, smoothing the nail to a silky finish.

600/4000 Grit Buffer

The 600/4000 grit buffer is the final stage in achieving a high-gloss shine. The 600 grit side provides a very fine smoothing action, removing any last imperfections. The 4000 grit side polishes the nail to a brilliant, glass-like shine, perfect for a professional finish.

Nail File Grit FAQs

What grit nail file should I use for natural nails?
For natural nails, it's best to use a finer grit nail file to avoid causing damage. A 240 grit nail file is ideal for gently shaping and smoothing natural nails without risking splits or tears. If you need to buff the surface, opt for a 220/280 or higher grit buffer to achieve a smooth, polished finish.

What grit nail file should I use to remove gel nails?
Removing gel nails requires a coarser grit to effectively break down the gel layer. A 100 grit nail file is typically used to start the removal process by filing off the bulk of the gel. Follow up with a finer grit, like 180, to smooth the remaining gel before soaking off any residual product.

What grit nail file is best for acrylic nails?
Acrylic nails are tougher and require a coarser grit for shaping and reducing length. An 80/80 or 100 grit nail file is perfect for heavy-duty tasks like shaping and removing bulk. For refining the shape and smoothing the surface, a 150 or 180 grit nail file works well.

Does the shape of the nail file matter?
The shape of the nail file can make a difference in ease of use and the results you achieve. Common shapes include straight, half-moon and banana. Straight files are versatile and good for general use, half-moon files offer a comfortable grip for shaping the sides and free edge, and banana files are curved to follow the natural curve of the nail, making them ideal for contouring.

On a 100/180 nail file, which side is which?
On a 100/180 nail file, the 100 grit side is the coarser, rougher side, while the 180 grit side is finer and smoother. The 100 grit side is used for heavy-duty filing and shaping, while the 180 grit side is used for refining and smoothing the nail surface.

How long do nail files last?
The lifespan of a nail file depends on the material and how often it's used. Traditional emery boards may wear out after a few uses, while higher-quality metal files can last much longer with proper care. On average, a nail file used regularly might last a few weeks to a couple of months. It's important to replace files when they become less effective or show signs of wear.

Are more expensive nail files worth it?
More expensive nail files are typically made from higher-quality materials that can last longer and provide a more consistent finish. Although they're more pricey to start with, they should be seen as a investment as you won't have to replace them as often as you would need to replace cheaper nail files. For professional use, we always advise spending a little more on your nail tools to get the best results and keep your clients happy.

Don't Forget - Look After Your Nail Files!

Taking care of your nail files is just as important as taking care of your clients, so don’t forget to prep files before use and clean them after every client.

  • To prep your nail files, gently dull the edges of a new file by running it against another file. This prevents sharp edges that could hurt your clients.
  • To clean your nail files after each use, brush off any debris, wash with soap and water and then soak them in Barbicide Disinfectant. This will kill any harbouring bacteria, so you’re not spreading it from client to client.

We've covered a lot about nail file grits, and now you should feel ready to pick the perfect grit for any task. With this knowledge, you’re sure to be delivering top-notch results and making your mark in the nail tech industry.

If you're looking to upgrade your kit or add some new favourites, check out our range of nail salon products.

Here’s to happy filing and even happier clients! 💅

The Essential Guide to Nail File Grits | Franklins (2024)

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